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The Tourista
My Travel Diary
Special Pristina Summer Edition
Discover Eastern Europe.



Prishtinë 2011

Inspired by

Edward Elgar’s, "Cello Concerto in E Minor, Op. 85, Adagio - Moderato"
Orchestrated and Arranged by Dave Metzger
Performed by Steve Erdody

from the 2007 movie, August Rush

 



The morning silence breaks as loud speakers broadcast the day’s first song-like call to prayer. It’s 5:45 a.m.  As night turns to day, the city begins to stir.  Engines rumble, pipes rattle and cargo doors clang loudly slamming open and shut delivering loads of fresh produce to green stands, dairy goods to markets and freshly baked breads to local cafes.  As more people begin moving about and buses begin their daily routes, the increasing volume becomes almost rhythmic.  Taxis return to the city after dropping their first 4:00 a.m. fares at the airport.  They line the sidewalks - doors open for all to hear unknown voices conveying dispatch orders from crackling radios.  As the sun peeks over the eastern sky, mothers hurry crying children to day care.  Storeowners ready storefronts by washing away the ever-present dust -- some with garden hoses, others with large water bottles.  

By the time the second call to prayer is recited, streets are bustling with activity.  People and automobiles rush to unknown destinations.  High-pitched horns beep and honk, radios boom with the latest rap, tires skid, brakes screech and steering wheels whine.   Babies scream in discontent while the masses offer greetings of mirëmëngjes to one another.  As morning gives way to afternoon, music from sidewalk cafes vibrate. 

The third call for prayer reverberates from tall towers.   Business people scurry about in groups searching for favorite lunch spots, discussing work of the day.  Women walk arm in arm chatting about new shoes, children giggle as they ride double on bicycles and men gather to rinse their hands at the water fountain outside the mosque.  Roma women, holding babies that appear to be in a drugged state of sleep, whimper and beg.  Men shuffle along, hands clasped behind their back.  Friends and co-workers meet for afternoon coffee or tea, buzzing with chatter while tending to cell phone alerts, even here.  Traditional wedding caravans of automobiles one after another pass by filled with a groom and his large extended family -- identified by white towels draped from the windshield and flags waving from side doors -- banging drums and tambourines, trumpeting horns, and sounding music announcing their cause to retrieve an awaiting bride.  Birds tweet and flutter by to pick berries.  A man tries to chase both blackbirds and doves from comfortable perches along an open third floor roof with the swish-swish-swishing of a stick.  

The muezzin melodiously announces the fourth call to prayer as afternoon turns to evening.   Streets again fill with automobiles accompanied by blaring horns, rumbling brakes and squealing tires, this time with drivers impatient to deliver occupants to late day meetings or return home.   Police interrupt traffic with a whoop of sirens escorting important government officials through town.  Wailing ambulances sound nearby.  Groups of raucous boys play kick ball in the street while girls sit on doorsteps, whispering secrets.  As the sun goes down, neighbors visit around crackling bonfires of trash burning in the middle of sidewalks as young couples stroll by in the street.   Booming firework displays light up the dark and the pop, pop, pop of celebratory gunfire startle the senses.  The sidewalks and streets fill with groups of men walking side by side, women walking arm in arm and families walking hand in hand mumbling cheerfully to one another.  The sexy, sultry sounds of Adele's Rolling in the Deep... "we could have had it a-w-l-l-l, we could have had it a-w-l, a-w-l" blasts from the open windows of a passing car. 

A few hours after sundown, verses of the final call to prayer echo all around.  Soon after the only sounds remaining are the chatter of late night dance crowds, the barking of wild dogs trying to avoid the hunt and the rumble of generator engines providing necessary power.  

Finally, the hush of a sleeping city. 







Spotlight on Business
Amelie's Espresso Bar
...where everyone knows your name


Let me introduce new friends...
(left to right)  Kushtrim, Elinda, Kushtrim, Ibe, Bashkim

I arrived in Pristina, the capital city of Kosovo, a little more than four months ago.  This city of approximately 200,000 people, located nearly 6,000 miles from home, was completely new to me.  I could barely find my way around.  I didn't know the language, anything about the culture or the people.  I longed for two things immediately.. a place to exercise and somewhere to enjoy my regular morning latte.   With Harry at work, where would I begin.  With the advice of Stephanie whom I'd only just met through the International Women's Club of Pristina, I located BeBe's Pilates Studio and signed up for the 12:30 p.m. weekday class.  Getting there was an easy 20-minute walk from our flat and the perfect starting point to begin my search for a latte..

I'd heard rumors about Pristina baristas making the best macchiatos in the world.   For those unaware, a macchiato is simply an espresso "marked" with milk.  The "Fans of Prishtina Machiato" facebook page cites an October 2009 Express daily newspaper report identifying Pristina as home to more than 500 coffeshops, serving around 20,000 kg of coffee every month.  I know much has changed since 2009, including the estimated population, and while I wasn't able to find an actual 2011 espresso bar count, I'm guesssing this statistic remains true today.  

My search didn't me long or far.  Two days and two blocks from the excercise studio in fact.  Amelie's Espresso Bar  at rr. Agim Ramadani turned out to be the perfect spot.  On the outside patio, tables are lined up along windows, shaded by umbrellas and awnings.  Inside, tables are lined up neatly next to often open windows and down the center offering both pleasant exterior views and welcome breezes.  High tables in the very back offer a little more privacy without obstructing views.  Anyone who decides to sit awhile will enjoy tthe soft contemporary music playing in the background, complementing quiet conversations all around.

I soon decided to try the famous Kosovo macchiato.  That's all it took.  Goodby latte, hello macchiato.  And Amelie's serves it up beautifully.   Sometimes the mark looks like a leaf, sometimes it looks like a heart -- whatever mark they choose, the macchiato always makes a statement is truly an exceptional delight for coffee lovers everywhere.  I'm now a regular -- and not just for the coffee.   Amelie's also serves a great affordable salads, pastries and sandwiches.  My favorite?  The shop salad served in a very deep bowl with three slices of the best brown bread in town.  All for under EUR 3.    It's a great place to pull out your laptop and sit awhile -- whether you want to catch up on some work or surf the web, taking advantage of the free wireless.  You'll appreciate the good service, good coffee, good food, good music and especially the clean bathrooms. 

Today, the staff knows me by name, they know my drink, they know my salad, and they miss me when I skip a day.  I am always greeted with a warm smile and a welcome.   Elinda and Iba both speak English fluently, everyone  else speaks a little..  My Albanian is limited to a handful of words and to my pleasure, staff always encourages my brutal attempts.  I hope to see you there sometime... it's a great spot!



Smile,

like you mean it!


08/2011
Best of the Best
...so far, in Pristina


Best Bars
...for people-watching


91
rr. Luan Haradinaj
(Police Blvd)


and

Rings
Mother Theresa Blvd



Best Restaraunt
...with a view

Pinocchio
rr. 24 Maj 115
Dragadan




Best Bookstore & Cafe
...to simply hangout
dit' e nat' Libra
Fazli Grajcevci 5



Best Taxi Service
...direct and on time
Auto Taxi
Ragip   044 417 050
Burim   044 373 478




Freshest Produce
...under the awning
along

rr. Nazim Gafurri
(between two Vivas, Road to Germia
)



Best City Park
Parku i Qytetit
(Italian Park)
rr. Rrustem Statovci





Best Library
National Library
Sheshi Hasan




Best Shopping Centre
Albi Mall
on the road to Skopje

 


People
...Around Town


   ...boys playing ball

      .... and taking a photo break for me
 
 
Old Town's Colorful Bazaar
 
 

... taxi drivers playing chess


and a man selling wood...


 

Of interest...
Pristina Factoid


According to Robert Elsie's Historical Dictionary of Kosovo ((2011), the Municipality of Prishtina's population of 250,000 is nearly double what it was before 1999 and the Kosovo War.  Tens of thousands of homeless sought refuge here.  Today, Albanians account for approximately 97% of the current population, Serbs account for approximately 2%, less than 1% are Turks, Ashkali and Roma.  The municipality of Prishtina covers 572 square kilometers.  A 2008 law calls for a self-contained mayoral-based government with an assembly of 52 members. 






Today in Pristina

91.4  Degrees

EUR .69 = $1.00

ABC Theatre Showing:
Bad Teacher @ KINO

 








Tammy Long

Writer and Photographer






Coming in December...
A Special Pristina Fall Edition




"There are amazingly wonderful people in all walks of life; some familiar to us and others not. Stretch yourself and really get to know people. People are in many ways one of our greatest treasures."


 

This issue is dedicated...

to the people of Pristina

...the city's greatest treasure!








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